Intensely aromatic and characteristically smoky, with marked reduction, a style that Dog Point have mastered so brilliantly. That smokiness is notable yet not excessive even if it is highly stylised. Behind the struck match is vibrant grapefruit and pear, immense depth and remarkable complexity for a young, unoaked white. Chewy texture and low pH make this a mouth-watering and persistent dry wine that is obviously Sauvignon Blanc but not just Sauvignon Blanc, and with better likely ageing capacity than most NZ SBs. Excellent purity and precision. I find this unspittable and feel sure it will be even better after another year in bottle.

Initially the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc needs a few moments to get itself together – much like we all do after waking up from our slumber. It wears a rather reductive overcoat, but under that flintiness you find concentrated, pure fruit flavors. It’s light in body but dense in concentration thanks to low yields, displaying both focus and punch. It's almost silvery in color and restrained thanks to hand-picking, leading to pure grapefruit and passion fruit flavors alongside a hint of nectarine. The finish is long, precise and sinewy.