2019 Joseph Roty - Charmes Chambertin Tres V.V. (750ml)

Domaine Joseph Roty traces its winemaking roots in Gevrey-Chambertin back to 1710 and is now guided by the twelfth generation of the family. Joseph Roty, who died in the early 2000s, built a fiercely traditional reputation, famously skeptical of shortcuts like chemical fertilizers, hot fast fermentations, and heavy new oak used to mask underripe fruit. His son Philippe has carried that philosophy forward since taking over the cellar, working from a modest holding of under seven hectares that nonetheless includes access to some of Burgundy's oldest vines, averaging around sixty years and, in select parcels, well over a century.

The Très Vieilles Vignes bottling comes from a section of Charmes-Chambertin planted mostly in 1881, among the oldest vines still producing in the region, and yields just a handful of barrels even in a generous year. The 2019 harvest began in late September and was shaped, as the domaine describes it, by both generosity and freshness, carried through with the estate's usual long, patient vinification and generous use of oak.

The wine offers ripe cherry and cassis fruit layered with licorice, anise, sweet spice, and dark chocolate, with a lift of peony on the nose. Full-bodied and velvety, it carries a broad, textural weight and powdery tannins through a long, resonant finish.