Wodka has pedigree. It's imported from Poland and distilled from rye, which makes it considerably ahead in the game. The stuff is legit. Classically structured, it offers bracing yet pleasant medicinal notes, and a sweetish core. Herbal notes of lavender and rosemary are present, as are some malt-like characteristics, presumably from the rye. The vodka is overall in balance and works well from start to finish. It is easy to make bad vodka. But it is not that hard to make good vodka. Wodka proves that with a little care and attention, quality vodka can be produced that needn't cost $25 a bottle. Even if you don't see it on the top shelf (and won't call it at a bar because the drink you get will cost more than a full bottle of the stuff), this is a vodka that wholly deserves our admiration. 80 proof. A-

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