The 2016 Figeac has a nose of real pedigree, featuring very well-defined, ferrous black fruit with hints of truffle and tobacco and conveying exceptional mineralit? and tension. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, a fine bead of acidity and wonderful structure and density toward the finish. This is a seriously fine proposition, although it is a surly Saint-?milion that may well close down for a while before blazing brightly in 15-20 years' time. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Neal Martin - Vinous Media (98+)