The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs Gains 1er Cru comes from a 0.30-hectare parcel just next to Truffi?res. The bouquet is more austere and reserved than the preceding Meursaults tasted at the domaine and demands more coaxing. The palate is saline and slightly oily in texture, underpinned by a very fine line of acidity that contains the richness that might otherwise have overwhelmed the finish. Superb.