The 2017 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is the most fine-boned and elegant wine in the range this year, as well as being—as usual—the most reserved out of the gates. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, wild yeast, orange zest, Asian pear and wet stones, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, pungently mineral finish. This has a very bright future ahead of it.