Hailing from 45-year-old vines, the 2018 Roche aux Moines is super gorgeous and silken, coating the mouth with its powerful yet suave character. The low yields are reflected in the dense core of ripe apple fruit, floral notes, marzipan, pastry and the merest hint of spice, which no doubt reflects 18 months’ maturation in barrel. There's a light dusting of fine phenolics on the finish and a satisfying grip, speaking of both the nature of this thick-skinned grape and the vineyard site. A smidgen more length would be welcome, but this is a judiciously handled and delightful wine from Tessa Laroche.

Rebecca Gibb - Vinous Media (94)