A nostalgic-inducing mix of lime Jell-O, white smoke and confectioners’ spice wafts up from the 2021 Zibibbo Lighea. This is all about citrus tension, as it cakes the palate with saline-minerals, and a burst of zesty acidity keeps the expression wildly fresh. A salty flourish defines the finale, as the Lighea tapers off fresh and perfumed.