Castellare make two Riserva: ‘Il Poggiale’ is a single-parcel bottling while 'Castellare di Castellina' is selected from multiple plots between 350 to 400 metres. Produced since 1979, this has discreet floral scents, fused with vanilla, tobacco and leather. There's plenty of substance to the palate, but it remains buoyant: dark forest berries are hemmed in by supple layered tannins. Satisfying right to the end, with a persistent finish of fennel and spice.