Key vineyards: Widows, Motukawa and Estate. Hand-picked selected lots within blocks. They're looking for the older vines. Less new oak than there used to be (though there is some sweet oakiness) and less ripe fruit. They start the ambient-yeast ferment in tank for nine days or so to ensure the yeast are behaving themselves. It then goes into 200 barrels! Very little malo because it's so difficult to achieve. Released 12 months later than of old. pH 2.98. Sophisticated and much much less oaky than it used to be. Sleek and refreshing. More precision than the Blank Canvas Abstract Three Rows but it's quite similar. Excellent acidity. Very good!

Jancis Robinson - Jancis Robinson (17.5)