Many people, including me, think of Joh. Jos. Prüm as the archetypal producer of sweet Mosel rieslings — as far as I know, Prüm doesn’t even make dry wines. The Prüm family established the estate in the early 19th century, and it’s run today by Katharina Prüm and her father, Manfred Prüm. The ’21 Graacher Himmelreich epitomizes the classic fragile kabinett, poised and precise, barely sweet and beautifully balanced. Don’t drink it yet, however: The old-school Prüm wines require aging. It’s not that they are unpleasant as babies, they are just nowhere near what they will become in 5 to 25 years.