Even better, with a Condrieu-like profile of caramelized citrus, apricot, flower oil and tangerine, the 2013 Borrowed (Roussanne, Chardonnay, Marsanne and a splash of Viognier) is full-bodied, rich, unctuous and concentrated. Possessing low acidity, it should evolve gracefully on its dry extract and concentration. It’s a seriously good white.