The latest release of Mouss?'s NV Extra-Brut L'Extra Or D?gorgement Tardif was disgorged in December 2017 with only one gram per liter dosage. It's based on the 2013 vintage, complemented by 50% of wine taken from a perpetual reserve that was started in 2003. The wine is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with aromas of toasted brioche, ripe yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, praline and woodsmoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy but incisive, displaying terrific depth and tension, a delicate low-pressure mousse and a long, sapid finish. This is a super, characterful Champagne that is well worth the effort to seek out.