From a warm site that typically produces the most accessible of Berthod's premiers crus, the 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns soars from the glass with aromas of ripe raspberries and cherries that mingle with nuances of licorice, rose petals and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and generous, with a gourmand and expressive core of fruit, velvety tannins and succulent balancing acids. Reminiscent of Barthod's terrific 2000, this will be hard to resist in its youth, but it should see out its 20th birthday in style.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns was the first to be picked this year, partly because the vineyard tends to suffer more millerandage. The bouquet offers black brambly fruit laced with violet and iris aromas. The palate is one of the most structured from the domaine this year, offering layers of mineral-rich black fruit and real tension toward the finish. Quite cerebral - and superb.