The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a tightly wound bouquet, less expressive than the other cuvees, but a few swirls reveal intense mineral-driven malic fruit. Like the aromatics, the palate is beautifully defined and reminds me of Domaine Leflaive in style. The spiciness hits the back palate, hints of lemongrass linger in the mouth after this Les Combettes has departed. Classy but compact at the moment, so do not begrudge cellaring this for 3-5 years.

Neal Martin - Vinous Media (93-95)