With a bouquet of black raspberries in an air of cracked slate, flint, ashen stone and smoke, the 2020 Etna Rosso makes itself known. It’s round and silky, with an initial burst of inner sweetness that’s quickly contrasted by tart wild berries and mineral tones that saturate toward the close. The 2020 keeps the energy high, even as it finishes lightly structured, leaving sour citrus and blackberries to linger. I love the vibrancy and vivid fruit here, but do give this some air to blow off a bit of its youthful reduction.