The 2018 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana keeps you at the edge of the glass, taking in its earthy yet gorgeous bouquet. Waves of crushed ashen stone, peppery herbs, blackberries and roses lift up effortlessly. This is silky in texture, with an unbelievably pure and vivid display of red fruits laced with salty minerals, as brisk acids create a sweet-and-sour tug of tension toward the close. The cheeks pucker, saturated with youthful tannin, as the 2018 Calderara Sottana clamps down hard, leaving only a hint of licorice and tart red berries in its wake. Close your eyes, and you might think this was a young, top-shelf Serralunga Barolo