Felsenberg and half Bockenauer Stromberg, from the vines that do not quite make it into the GGs. Slight smoke spells some reduction, with wet stone only adding to that smokiness. Precision, minerality, poise and purity are all evident in this sleek package, with the mid-palate still suused with some yeasty funk. It dashes with absolute focus towards the nish, so cool, so bright, so lemony. This is a whole lot of wine at very moderate alcohol. (Bone-dry)

Anne Krebiehl MW - Vinous Media (93)