The 2023 Morgon Côte du Py comes from several parcels of granite and schistous soils with many centurion vines. This has a wonderful, very complex bouquet with exquisite delineation: crushed stone filters through dark berry fruit alongside hints of ash and light stony scents. The sapid and vivacious palate has filigree tannins, a silver thread of acidity, and a touch of cracked black pepper towards the long finish. This is one of the best Morgons you can buy…but that's old news.