Another brilliant wine from Samuel Billaud, and one of the most classically Chablisien in character, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Séchet Vieilles Vignes derives from 90-year-old vines, the oldest of the domaine, and is aged entirely in steel for 18 months. Opening in the glass to reveal a bouquet of lemon zest, oyster shell, white flowers and crushed chalk, it’s compact and chiseled, with extraordinary purity, a bright, incisive line of acidity and a strikingly sapid, mouthwatering finish. Chablis purists will want to seek this out urgently, as it ranks among Billaud’s finest premiers crus this year.