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While everyone yanks the wheel to the right, doing ever-more dry wines, Lauer holds his own course, providing for us new treasures for our campaign: “Spätlese is the new Kabinett.” Some say Spätlese is the heart of the vintage; I’m not 100% sure but this is delicious, light and zingy and refreshing. Dinner Spätlese – not for dessert.
“Barrel X” is winemaker Florian Lauer’s Platonic ideal of what a slightly off-dry (feinherb) Saar Riesling should be. If we were in Burgundy, this would be the equivalent of a “Bourgogne Blanc.” As an appellation-level wine, it is sourced from multiple vineyards in four different villages of the Saar: Ayl (Lauer’s home village), Saarburg, Wawern and Wiltingen. Florian says, “From Ayl and Wawern, the wine gains the fruit and power, from Saarburg the racy acidity, and from Wiltingen, the spice.”
Regardless of what comes from where, this much is certain: dollar for dollar, I’m not sure there is a 750ml bottle that delivers as much joy and zing. This is the gateway drug to Lauer, to the Saar, to Riesling… be careful. Very addictive.
The “regular” 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett (bearing A.P. #3)
leads with quince and peach accented by mint, cress, ginger and lemon,
setting up an overall impression of coolness, but also of brightness, with
stimulating cut and pungency analog...
The 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Spätlese A.P. #6 reflects numerous
parcels and pickings with largely healthy fruit but slight botrytis influence.
Quince and white peach hover between fresh and jellied, overlain with
heady, musky perfume of peony and ...
An off-dry riesling beauty with very attractive white-flower and white-fruit aromas, a hint of green-apple freshness lifting the medium-bodied palate. Precise balance at the long, clean finish. Drink or hold.