Unlike most Marlborough Sauvignons, the 2021 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc is cropped low and hand-harvested in a bid to increase concentration and restraint, respectively. This is a Scrappy Doo of a wine with its youthful "lemme at 'em" vivacity. It has masses of dissolved CO2, clearly visible on pouring, which provides a slight crackle in the mouth. The wine is citrus-driven, with lemon and lime meeting pineapple and more subtle details of jasmine, green herbs and flint. The finish is powerful and intense, potentially due to the naturally low yields of 2021 adding that extra punch. Rebecca Gibb - Vinous Media (92)
This comes from vines averaging 20 years old growing in the communes of Couffy, Seigy and Chateauvieux just south of the Cher River, a major tributary of the Loire. The Loire Valley is an open window to the Atlantic, blessing the region with clement weather. L’Aumonier’s soils range from tufa hillsides rich in clay and limestone to flatter sites of flint and clay, sand and clay, and silt and clay. Ferments are typically spontaneous (the occasional difficult tank may get a dose of neutral yeast) and the wine is raised in tank. There's no fining during élevage and only a light filtration at bottling. Production averages 8,500 cases.
What’s most striking about Malleron’s bottle—something the Sancerre obsessives will pick up on from the first sip—is the texture. Yes, this wine has the flinty minerality and floral bouquet. Yes, it’s got the straight line of bright, clean flavors and zippy acidity. But Malleron’s bottle is bolstered with a bit more ripeness—and combined with all of the above, it equals Sancerre at its best.
The 2020 Sauvignon Blanc comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of nectarines, grapefruit and orange blossoms, plus hints of chalk dust, white pepper and oyster shell, with a gentle waft of beeswax. Medium-bodied, elegant and refreshing, the...