What’s most striking about Malleron’s bottle—something the Sancerre obsessives will pick up on from the first sip—is the texture. Yes, this wine has the flinty minerality and floral bouquet. Yes, it’s got the straight line of bright, clean flavors and zippy acidity. But Malleron’s bottle is bolstered with a bit more ripeness—and combined with all of the above, it equals Sancerre at its best.
From three parcels, two in Puligny and one in Meursault, vinified separately, the 2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir was bottled in August. It has a pleasant cranberry and sous-bois-tinged bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit and a brisk bla...