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While incredibly complex, the 2019 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Piano delle
Colombe is also amazingly finessed, pulling me close with minty herbs and
rose tones, only to find depths of pomegranate, black cherries and Indian
spice. This is seamlessly silky an...
The Graci 2021 Etna Rosso reveals a structured but slender personality with bright berry fruit, redcurrant and wild berry. The wine is balanced and fresh. It shows the specific volcanic character that only wines from the charred slopes of Etna can deliver...
Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys ar...
Fine and ripe, this is a sweet—while also complex—wine from Graham's flagship estate. Its tannins lead easily to ripe flavors of black plum and berry juice, resulting in a wine that is firm, full bodied, fruity and generous.
The 2016 Vintage Port is a blend of 37% Touriga Nacional, 42% Touriga Franca and various others. It comes in with 115 grams of residual sugar. A bit bigger than Dow's this year, this is more intense as well. The better wine of these two benchmarks seems t...
Powerful and concentrated, featuring blackberry, plum, fruitcake and iron flavors. Exuberant and resonant on the long, iron- and spice-tinged finish. Think salumi and cheeses.
The young red 2023 Mencía also contains the allowed 15% of other local varieties—Brancellao, Merenzao, Garnacha, Mouratón, Negreda, Sousón… It has notes of wild berries, herbs and flowers and a characteristic touch of honey and beeswax that I sometimes fi...
The 2017 NeroSanlorè is the dusty, spicy and elegant beauty of the Gulfi
Nero d’Avola range. The bouquet presents a beguiling mix of crushed
stone, roses, incense and tart cherries. It’s soft and almost weightless in
feel, hovering across the palate wi...
The NV Verdelho 20 Year Old doesn't hit the same highs as its Malvasia counterpart, but it is also a persuasive wine, offering up aromas of dried fruit, beeswax furniture polish, citrus rind and salted caramel. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, med...
