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The Riesling Weiser-Künstler, as it is referred to on the main label (the reference to the vintage is left for the back label), is a barely off-dry wine (with 18 g/l of residual sugar) made from Estate’s holdings and from grapes sourced at a befriended organic grower in the Enkircher Steffensberg. It offers a fresh and joyful nose of anise, minty herbs, vineyard peach, as well as plenty of spices. The wine comes initially over as delicately smooth and juicy yet the acidity quickly joins the party and gives focus and presence to the wine. The finish is already dry in taste as the racy acidity brings animating freshness.
The 2020er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (77 g/l). it offers a subtly exotic nose made of apricot, melon, cassis, passion fruit, smoke, and a hint of almond. The wine develops the smooth yet racy intense presence of an Auslese on the palate and leaves one with a still rather sweet feel in the melon infused finish. This gorgeous subtly apricot-infused and creamy wine now just needs a few years of patience in order to firm up and deliver its goods.
The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
