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The 2023 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Felsentürmchen
Grosses Gewächs is picked in the fully south-facing site of porphyry
and melaphyr. Cornelius Dönnhoff says this is the most challenging
site to work, simply because the stones are so hard ...
The 2023 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese, grown on
shale, has equal notions of moss and lemon. More air makes this smell
simply of wet stone. The palate carries gentle sweetness but is
absolutely precise and slender. Citrus frames everythi...
The Upper Mosel has nothing to do with Riesling and nothing to do with slate. Instead, we find limestone. The Upper Mosel in fact represents the beginning (or the end?) of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre. Instead of Riesling, in the Upper Mosel we find a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s oldest grapes: Elbling. It’s important to understand that Elbling here feels like something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. The joy of Elbling is the uncompromising vigor and energy, the raucous and super-chalky acidity. Matthias Hild, who farms about six hectares in the sleepy town of Wincheringen, told me that back in the 1980s, when he’d have an Elbling clock in at less than 8.5 grams acid, he’d taste it and question if it was Elbling at all. Which is sort of like saying you’re not sure the music is loud enough because your ears aren’t bleeding.
Vines for the Sekt are from within 4km of Wincheringen. After harvest the Sekt goes through a 21-day cold fermentation in stainless steel. After malolactic fermentation the wine is stored on it’s lees for 9-18 months until disgorgment. Dosage is 10-12g/L.
The 2023 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3 opens with a clear and coolish, very precise and flinty as well as vegetal bouquet of dark, crushed slate. Very elegant and mouthwatering on the palate, with lively, mineral acidity and stimulating salinity...
The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett opens with substantial depth and a brilliant bouquet of wet slate. The fruit is intense but not dominating, thanks to the flintiness and savoriness of the Himmelreich terroir. On the palate, this is a mouth-...
Felsenberg and half Bockenauer Stromberg, from the vines that do not
quite make it into the GGs. Slight smoke spells some reduction, with
wet stone only adding to that smokiness. Precision, minerality, poise
and purity are all evident in this sleek pac...
