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Sourced from vineyards that fall exactly along the border of the two sub-regions of Anjou, this gorgeously subtle white from fourth-generation winemaker Pascal Biotteau comes from the village of Saint-Jean-de-Mauvrets, situated on the old Roman road from Angers to Poitiers.
Aromas of dark plums, racy wild blueberries, strawberries with dried herbs and cured meat. It’s medium-to full-bodied with fine tannins. Elegant and transparent, yet full of characters with mineral, raspberries and cherries on the palate. Vibrant finish a...
The Maury Doux 1985 has a deep, coffee color to go with an almost Rancio-like bouquet of sour figs, toffee, licorice and toasted spice. This gives way to a seriously concentrated, decadent and chewy effort that still manages to stay fresh and lively on th...
In 1997, Catherine Roque, already a vigneronne in the Vallée de L’Orb, acquired Mas D’Alezon and its 7 hectares in the northern corner of Faugères. The vineyards are in the village of Soumatre and, ranging from 350 to 450 meters in altitude, are the highest in the appellation. Catherine’s vineyard is certified organic and she employs bio-dynamic principles to enhance the health of the soil and the plants. Catherine grows Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah for her reds and Clairette and Roussanne for her white. The average age of her vines is 25 years, including plots of 70 year old Grenache and 80 year old Mourvèdre. Due to the combination of infertile soils and cool micro-climate, her grapes are very slow to ripen and yields are typically 20 to 25 hl/ha. The domain’s two red wines are vinified similarly.
The Presbytère is 80% Grenache with the remainder a blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Originally, this was to be a rosé, but Amélie didn't like the result, so she decided to make a lighter, more elegant and refreshing red. The base of Grenache comes from an old hillside vineyard just behind their house and winery, which in turn is immediately south of the village of Montpeyroux, while the Syrah and Carignan come from nearby sites. The wine sings of its Mediterranean heritage, rich with licorice and tapenade in a long, lean, tension-filled profile. And check out its refreshingly low alcohol!
The grapes are de-stemmed and raised entirely in tank. The SO2 additions are minimal and done following devatting, then again during élevage, and a third time after blending. Typically the total amounts to 25 mg/l, which is less than Demeter's threshold for natural wines (Demeter's thresholds are 100 mg/l for organic wines; 70 mg/l for biodynamic wines; and 30 mg/l for natural wines).
The label was designed by her daughter Gabrielle and son Paul (then six and four respectively) with help from friends. That, plus the fact that the cuvée is the most recent in the domaine's range, accounts for the name Petitou--in spirit, the little one. Production averages 7,500 bottles.
Le Clos is an isolated 2.22 acre parcel of vines on a south-facing slope surrounded by forest. It's in the commune of Montpeyroux but Amélie labels the wine under the Terrasses du Larzac appellation to keep it separate from her Montpeyroux bottling, which comes from a number of different sites scattered about the commune and is given a different élevage.
Le Clos was planted in 2001 to 40% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 30% Syrah. That reflects more or less the blend in the bottle. All of the varieties are hand-harvested, but the Syrah inevitably is harvested and vinified first, while the Grenache and Mourvèdre are normally harvested later and together and are co-fermented. All ferments are native, and the wine is aged for ~18 months in 600L demi-muids, 20% of which are new. A normal year sees 300 cases.
A small fraction of the reds are bottled without any added sulfur and go to specific customers, but it's not a commercial wine. I tasted one of those bottles: the 2021 Els Escurçons. It is pretty, pale, perfumed, ethereal, vibrant and clean, with no fault...
