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A bright red ruby hue, the 2022 Pinot Noir The Estate is lifted in the glass and has a lot of fresh, bright notes of rosy perfume, grenadine, rosemary, and sweet earth. Medium-bodied, it has a vibrant energy and savory drive on the palate, with notes of s...
From the Grand Cru vineyard of Furstentum, this is a blend of 60% Pinot Gris + 20% Pinot Auxerrios + 20% Pinot Blanc; all are co-fermented and aged in small oak barrels of which 20% are new oak. The vines are around 40 years old. The fine texture remind...
The bouquet of this great dry riesling is like an essence of golden stone fruits, yet it remains delicate and charming. Stunning concentration and brilliance on the very focused medium-bodied palate. After the first wave of peachy and apricot character co...
The 2021 Riesling Altenbourg is from this limestone site underneath the
Furstentum Grand Cru. A gentle orange peel perfume on the nose
intensifies on the lithe, bright body. There is more fruit on the midpalate -
think Mirabelle and peach, and an excel...
The 2021 Pinot Gris Les Caracoles is named after the Schnackator lieu-dit,
a name perhaps linked to snail-shaped fossils in the limestone soils. It is
just underneath the grand cru Furstentum, on clay and limestone; the
vines are 40-50 years old. This ...
The 2022 Pinot Gris Les Caracoles is shy, advancing just gentle lemon overtones. The palate is surprisingly linear and imbued with a lovely coolness and a streamlined body with a little oaky smoke. The 2022 is unusually linear, cool and bone dry. It's mos...
The most incredible part about this very rare bottle of wine is that it tastes more like Morstein than it does of Scheurebe.
Yes, this makes some sense. This bottle is sourced, after all, from a tiny, 0.3-hectare parcel of old Scheurebe vines, about 55 years old, in the “La Borne” parcel of the Morstein vineyard.
This is one of the most joyful, transparent, buoyant and garden-fresh wines that Keller makes. While it’s in no way a culty bottle of wine, at least in the “fine wine” world, it is a bottle obsessed upon by any number of German wine dorks, for the very fact that it both absolutely transcends the grape itself, and, is so profoundly the grape.
This is Morstein first perhaps – but after that, there is no doubt it is Scheurebe.
Which begs the question, for some at least: What the hell is Scheurebe?
The grape is a crossing of Silvaner and Riesling, famous for its black currant, grapefruit, and floral aromatics. When Scheurebe is made sloppily, it has all the charm of a cheap perfume, heavy and chemical-feeling.
However, from the right place, tended by the right hands, the wines can just be stunningly fresh, soaring in fact, and wildly mineral, clear, deep and elegant… which is exactly what Keller’s rendition is.
