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And variety is everything, so I wouldn’t fill my island cooler with\u0026nbsp;\u003cem\u003ejust\u003c/em\u003e\u0026nbsp;Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais-Villages. But this kind of red makes you suspend reason for a moment and devote yourself to it, at least while the wine’s still in your glass.\u003cbr /\u003e\u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp; \u0026nbsp;After all, Beaujolais-Villages has no business being this good, but Jean Foillard is an extraordinary vigneron. A decade or so ago, Jean made Beaujolais Nouveau that he would expedite to us each November to meet the deadline of the worldwide Nouveau celebration. 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The latest addition to Jean Foillard’s stellar lineup of Morgons comes from the Charmes 'lieu-dit', one of the highest parcels in the appellation. A truly fine wine, this cuvée features a bit more crunch with lots of bright acidity and a leaner, more min...
Every so often, I take a sip of a “humble” regional wine that makes me question everything. With a glass of this in hand, I think to myself, who cares about grand cru Burgundy? Or, why would I ever drink anything else? Or, surely this is the bottle I’d choose to fill my cooler with if I were stranded on a desert island. When I’m able to think rationally again, of course I’d pounce on a bottle of Taupenot-Merme’s grand cru Corton Rognet or the Perret family’s majestic Condrieu I write about in this month’s newsletter. And variety is everything, so I wouldn’t fill my island cooler with just Jean Foillard’s Beaujolais-Villages. But this kind of red makes you suspend reason for a moment and devote yourself to it, at least while the wine’s still in your glass. After all, Beaujolais-Villages has no business being this good, but Jean Foillard is an extraordinary vigneron. A decade or so ago, Jean made Beaujolais Nouveau that he would expedite to us each November to meet the deadline of the worldwide Nouveau celebration. That Nouveau was outstanding and he didn’t need to change anything, but he had an epiphany that only the most ambitious sort of grower has: the grapes he was using were of high enough quality to make a cuvée with more depth and complexity, so he proposed taking his time to produce a Beaujolais-Villages instead of a hurried Nouveau. Blending grapes from high-elevation, granite-heavy terroirs barely outside the region’s crus, and with a patient élevage that’s very close to that of his world-class Morgons, this wine is silky and seductive, with notes of rose petals, red fruit, pomegranate, and stones. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, and lots of class, it is perfect for all occasions.
It was a first for me, as I had never tasted wines from this estate before, and the 2022 Gigondas is a real surprise—an outstanding wine. It evokes aromas of ripe dark berries, spices, garrigue and subtle earthy undertones, with a hint of smoke and licori...
Lots of uber-rich black cherries, melted licorice, and peppery notes emerge from the 2023 Vacqueyras, a ripe, medium to full-bodied, plush, nicely concentrated 2023.
Warm and round, with good energy. Orchard fruit and green plum notes are flanked by crushed stone and smoky mineral accents, plus well-integrated toasty details. Savory grilled herb hints echo on the well-meshed finish. Broad and nicely rich. Drink now. 2...
Elegantly peppery, the 2022 Côtes du Roussillon Bastide Miraflors evokes aromas of dark berries, spices, flowers and ripe cherries. Moderately weighted, round and supple, it's textured with structured tannins and a long, ethereal finish. There's no reason...
