Germany
2022 Vollenweider - Wolfer Riesling Trocken
This is always one of my favorite wines. I honestly can’t say what it is specifically I love about it. It’s a bit grander and more elegant, more crystalline than the Felsenfest… yet there is something still delicate and easy about it. It’s so, so, so serious, but also clear and easy to drink. I love this wine.
2022 Vollenweider - Wolfer Riesling Goldgrube Trocken
The 2022er Goldgrube Riesling, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a bone-dry wine made from fruit harvested on up to 120-year-old un- grafted vines and was left for 1 year on its gross lees. It has a beautifully and finely reductive and very herbal nose of minty thyme, rosemary, white pepper, spearmint, flintstone, and other wild herbs, before showing fine scents of white flowers and lime tree. The wine starts off on a slightly round and creamy side, yet an acidic backbone clearly comes through and leads to a straight and quite spicy long finish. This defies the richer side of the 2022 vintage and proves superbly refined and playful. The aftertaste is all about smoke and white flowers and proves bone-dry in taste.
-Mosel Fine Wines
2021 Vols - Ayler Kupp Riesling Spatlese
Grape: Riesling
Region: Nahe
Village: Ayl
Vineyard: Kupp
Soil Type: Slate
Production: Spontaneous fermentation and aging in stainless steel.
2019 Weingut Keller - Dalsheimer Hubacker TBA HALF BOTTLE (375ml)
2018 Weingut Keller - Rieslaner Beerenauslese GK HALF BOTTLE (375ml)
2024 Weingut Keller - Scheurebe Trocken (750ml)
The most incredible part about this very rare bottle of wine is that it tastes more like Morstein than it does of Scheurebe.
Yes, this makes some sense. This bottle is sourced, after all, from a tiny, 0.3-hectare parcel of old Scheurebe vines, about 55 years old, in the “La Borne” parcel of the Morstein vineyard.
This is one of the most joyful, transparent, buoyant and garden-fresh wines that Keller makes. While it’s in no way a culty bottle of wine, at least in the “fine wine” world, it is a bottle obsessed upon by any number of German wine dorks, for the very fact that it both absolutely transcends the grape itself, and, is so profoundly the grape.
This is Morstein first perhaps – but after that, there is no doubt it is Scheurebe.
Which begs the question, for some at least: What the hell is Scheurebe?
The grape is a crossing of Silvaner and Riesling, famous for its black currant, grapefruit, and floral aromatics. When Scheurebe is made sloppily, it has all the charm of a cheap perfume, heavy and chemical-feeling.
However, from the right place, tended by the right hands, the wines can just be stunningly fresh, soaring in fact, and wildly mineral, clear, deep and elegant… which is exactly what Keller’s rendition is.
-Importer notes
2023 Weiser-Kunstler - Ellergrub Spatlese
The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 92-93° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (68 g/l). It immediately captures one’s attention as it reveals a comparatively rich and aromatic nose of fine exotic fruits, honey, fresh pineapple, William pear, acacia, mirabelle, plum, and cinnamon. The wine coats the palate with some juicy and slightly honeyed fruits yet leaves a fresh and nicely focused and refreshing long finish. There is good extract and presence, without any undue power. The aftertaste still needs to integrate its sweetness, which will happen in a decade or more
-Mosel Fine Wines
2020 Weiser-Kunstler - Ellergrub Spatlese
The 2020er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (77 g/l). it offers a subtly exotic nose made of apricot, melon, cassis, passion fruit, smoke, and a hint of almond. The wine develops the smooth yet racy intense presence of an Auslese on the palate and leaves one with a still rather sweet feel in the melon infused finish. This gorgeous subtly apricot-infused and creamy wine now just needs a few years of patience in order to firm up and deliver its goods.
-Mosel Fine Wines