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It is wonderful to be able to rely on a bottle of red wine, year in and year out, as we do with Bruno Laboucarié’s blend of old-vine Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from Corbières. To see the bottle there on your counter or resting in your wine rack, and know with confidence that it is ready to offer up its pure, sun-kissed mélange of dark red fruit, baking spices, and earthy minerality is a small, luxurious comfort amid the hurly-burly of daily life. This kind of consistency over just a few vintages is notable, but we’ve been importing Domaine de Fontsainte’s wines since 1978! Few values can match that track record.
The domaine farms ten acres in this high elevation appellation just southwest of Morgon. The vines are all head-pruned (as are all of the domaine's Gamay), average 50 years and grow on a steep, south-facing hillside of sandy granitic soil. The grapes are de-stemmed but not crushed, and ferments are spontaneous. The élevage is a relatively short one of six or so months in concrete vats, making for an especially exuberant wine of crisp red berry fruit. Production averages 1,670 cases.
100% Melon de Bourgogne. Classic Muscadet on granite. The core of the "La Pépie" Sur Lie bottling is the 10-hectare heart of the Pépière estate, which is part of the Clisson cru in the tiny commune of Pépière near the winery; there is also a portion of purchased fruit from a nearby organic farmer friend in the mix. Pépière's farming is certified-biodynamic and the harvest by hand. The bunches are direct-pressed and the juice settled for 12 hours. It is fermented in stainless steel tanks with natural yeasts; the wine is aged on its lees for 6-8 months in large, underground, glass-lined cement tanks. It is bottled without filtration.
The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de l'Arlot 1er Cru also showed a
little reduction on the nose, with brambly red berry fruit and wild
hedgerow, touches of loam emerging with time. The oak, 40% new, is
neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, wi...
This comes from vines averaging 20 years old growing in the communes of Couffy, Seigy and Chateauvieux just south of the Cher River, a major tributary of the Loire. The Loire Valley is an open window to the Atlantic, blessing the region with clement weather. L’Aumonier’s soils range from tufa hillsides rich in clay and limestone to flatter sites of flint and clay, sand and clay, and silt and clay. Ferments are typically spontaneous (the occasional difficult tank may get a dose of neutral yeast) and the wine is raised in tank. There's no fining during élevage and only a light filtration at bottling. Production averages 8,500 cases.
The 2023 Cotes de Provence Blanc Porquerolles, made entirely from Rolle (Vermentino), presents a lively, delicate bouquet of iodine, flowers, lemon confit, peach and white pepper. Medium to full-bodied, round and precise, it possesses a pure and crystalli...