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The 2022 Pinot Gris Les Caracoles is shy, advancing just gentle lemon overtones. The palate is surprisingly linear and imbued with a lovely coolness and a streamlined body with a little oaky smoke. The 2022 is unusually linear, cool and bone dry. It's mos...
The most incredible part about this very rare bottle of wine is that it tastes more like Morstein than it does of Scheurebe.
Yes, this makes some sense. This bottle is sourced, after all, from a tiny, 0.3-hectare parcel of old Scheurebe vines, about 55 years old, in the “La Borne” parcel of the Morstein vineyard.
This is one of the most joyful, transparent, buoyant and garden-fresh wines that Keller makes. While it’s in no way a culty bottle of wine, at least in the “fine wine” world, it is a bottle obsessed upon by any number of German wine dorks, for the very fact that it both absolutely transcends the grape itself, and, is so profoundly the grape.
This is Morstein first perhaps – but after that, there is no doubt it is Scheurebe.
Which begs the question, for some at least: What the hell is Scheurebe?
The grape is a crossing of Silvaner and Riesling, famous for its black currant, grapefruit, and floral aromatics. When Scheurebe is made sloppily, it has all the charm of a cheap perfume, heavy and chemical-feeling.
However, from the right place, tended by the right hands, the wines can just be stunningly fresh, soaring in fact, and wildly mineral, clear, deep and elegant… which is exactly what Keller’s rendition is.
The 2022 Spätburgunder Dalsheimer Bürgel Grosses Gewächs opens
with a slight crackle of smoky reduction, wrapping itself around red
berries of tart and highly aromatic allure. The palate dances, going all
out with its charm. It irts with red-fruited ex...
The 2020er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (77 g/l). it offers a subtly exotic nose made of apricot, melon, cassis, passion fruit, smoke, and a hint of almond. The wine develops the smooth yet racy intense presence of an Auslese on the palate and leaves one with a still rather sweet feel in the melon infused finish. This gorgeous subtly apricot-infused and creamy wine now just needs a few years of patience in order to firm up and deliver its goods.
The 2023er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 92-93° Oechsle on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (68 g/l). It immediately captures one’s attention as it reveals a comparatively rich and aromatic nose of fine exotic fruits, honey, fresh pineapple, William pear, acacia, mirabelle, plum, and cinnamon. The wine coats the palate with some juicy and slightly honeyed fruits yet leaves a fresh and nicely focused and refreshing long finish. There is good extract and presence, without any undue power. The aftertaste still needs to integrate its sweetness, which will happen in a decade or more
The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
